Yellowing, browning or discolored patches are the most common thing homeowners call us about. The important part is working out why before you act — re-sodding is expensive, and it solves nothing if the underlying cause is still there. Work through these in order.

Step 1 — rule out heat stress first

Before assuming disease, try hand-watering the affected area in addition to running your sprinklers.

Heat stress shows up predictably: near sidewalks, driveways and stonework, where concrete holds heat and radiates it into the adjacent grass. Blades thin out and “needle up.” It is also worth ruling out frequent dog urination, which produces similar-looking patches in similar spots.

If a few days of extra water brings it back, that was your answer.

Step 2 — if patches persist, check for insects

No improvement after a few days of hand watering points to insects, disease or fungus. The three insects that do real damage to North Texas lawns:

Step 3 — fungus and disease

For prevention and treatment, de-thatch the lawn first, then apply Bioadvance (the blue bottle at Home Depot or Lowe's) along with Disease Ex granules.

You can apply both together or alternate them weekly. Always follow the label's rates, and note that most products list separate curative and preventative rates — use the one that matches your situation.

Prevention that actually works

• Water before 10am. Grass that stays wet overnight is how most fungus takes hold.
• Water deeply and less often rather than shallow daily sprinkles once the lawn is established.
• Do not scalp. Removing more than a third of the blade stresses the plant and opens gaps.
• Keep an eye on the calendar. Knowing that grubs peak in late summer and army worms arrive in August means you catch them early.